Located 40 km north of Phnom Penh, Oudong was the royal capital for almost 250 years from the 17th to 19th century. The sparse remains of the ancient royal city are often overlooked as most visitors head straight for the ancient necropolis a few kilometers south.

The necropolis occupies two hills connected by a ridge, and is peppered with the weathered stupas and shrines of former kings. The site has been partially restored, and a new stupa built to house a Buddhist meditation center now perches on one of the hilltops.

Oudong makes a great day trip from Phnom Penh, and can be reached by car, tuk tuk or - if you're fit enough - bicycle. Come early before the heat kicks in because there are over 400 stairs leading up the mountain and not enough shade. Allow at least two hours to visit the site.

It is not necessary to hire a guide, though it could be helpful to understand the site's history and significance. Watch out for touts who will try to latch on to your group and point out a few things, then demand a princely "guide fee". They can be as hard to shake off as the monkeys that wait by the stairs and try to snatch your food. Be careful, these monkeys have been known to bite.

At the foot of the hill is a market and picnic area that is popular with local families, especially on weekends and holidays.